Impressions from the Rome-Catania Road
You may well puzzle over the idea of a train running all the way from Rome, in mainland Italy, to Catania in Sicily, but this is a rare journey where the train boards a ship to cross the sea. It may be faster to fly, but you would miss watching the landscape changing from a European aspect to a harsher, almost North African one as it slips by.
Leaving Rome’s main station in the morning, the suburbs finally give way to plots of well cultivated land interspersed with small houses, many only half-built, multi-coloured washing flapping on lines in the sunshine. Yellow and white flowers brighten the fields and the trees begin to appear smaller and more gnarled.
After drawing into Naples, its shabby, colourful tenements strung with washing, the line turns to run
parallel to the coast. You’ll catch a glimpse of the island of Capri and the Sorrentine peninsula, and soon the landscape becomes one of bare, rocky hills, abandoned villages, with an occasional sprinkling of modern houses. The beach too, looks somewhat abandoned: with few people and just the odd fishing boat out to sea. Finally the train pulls into Villa San Giovanni, where the carriages, uncoupled, are rolled onto the ferry, and taken across the Straits of Messina, where they are rolled back onto tracks and re-assembled. During the crossing, passengers either stay in their compartments or climb the stairs to the deck, where they can relish the sight of Sicily and Messina gradually drawing closer.
The journey down Sicily’s eastern coast takes you past citrus groves, crumbling castles, prickly pears and cactus. You even get a good enough look at Taormina to want to visit it properly, as well as passing the imposing mass of Mount Etna, before eventually arriving at Catania, the island’s second city and seaport
WHEN TO GO:
All year round, but April to November Is probably best.
TIME IT TAKES:
Ten to thirteen hours, depending on Italian Railways
The journey Itself – having the time to realize you are travelling and watching southern Italy pass by.
The Vatican City and St Peter’s.
Exploring Mount Etna.
Catania – the two markets in the historic centre
YOU SHOULD KNOW:
The straits of Messina were described In Homer’s Odyssey as one of the most treacherous passages on earth, guarded by sirens who tempted sailors to their deaths with songs. Ships had
to pass between two monsters, Scylla, who plucked sailors from their ships and ate them alive, and Charybdis, who sucked entire ships into the whirlpool it created.